The overnight train to Prague was painless, the border crossing and passport inspection coming at a reasonable 11:30pm rather than the middle of the night as in previous journeys. I had intended to travel 2nd-class but upon boarding the prospect of being squashed into a sleeper cabin with five other people was too much for John and he prompted us to upgrade. Similarly, no accommodation was pre-booked for Prague with the option left open for the possibility of staying at a travellers hostel and giving John a taste of bare-bones travel. Unsurprisingly, this idea didn't go down too well either and we quickly arranged to stay at another hotel. This turned out to be more like a private apartment within an attractive courtyard block and very comfortable. Being located further outside the town centre meant that we got to know the tram system pretty quickly.

Prague is a place where it really helps if you've got good company with you. The city is geared up for great nightlife with an unlimited range of bars, clubs and music venues. The biggest, and most pleasant surprise on arrival was with the Czech beers; universally considered to be amongst the finest in the World, it's sold at a fraction of the price you pay in Western countries. Beer is usually the cheapest option on the menu and quite a bit cheaper than soft drinks.

One of the most sticking aspects of Prague is not just it's variety of elegant streets and immaculate buildings but its sheer scale. Unlike many European cities that have a well-preserved town centre that ultimately jars against a perimeter of drab, modern suburbs, Prague just seems to be attractive where ever you go. Almost every architectural style is evident from Art Nuveau to Cubist and Gothic to modern, all blending together seamlessly.

The predicted crowds of tourist were present but they didn't seem to clog up the city and turn the place into a money-making circus like other places. Even the groups of rowdy stag parties were easily absorbed into normal city life.

We spent most of the time wandering around the city making frequent beer and food stops but managed to break up the barhopping with another classical concert. We also continued the theme established to good effect in Krakow and spent the last night at another excellent cellar based jazz club.

After parting with John on the Sunday I left Prague and headed south to the Bohemia region. I had originally planned to visit Vienna but decided that I'd rather see more of the real Czech Republic than just another Western city. I got as far as Cesky Bodjovice, a quiet town in the heart of Bohemia and stayed in a pension overlooking a canal. It was a welcome chance to slow down a little bit after the excesses of the previous ten days, relax and consider the planning of the rest of the route.

A day trip to Ceske Krumlov is an essential part of staying in this part of the country. It only takes a short train journey to this small town which looks like something Walt Disney would have been proud of. The centre of town is a maze of narrow alleys and crooked houses and it's almost completely encircled by a river which resembles a moat. Overlooking it all from a steep hill is a castle, second only to Prague's in size which dominates the town. You half expect to see whistling dwarfs with pickaxes marching around the corner.

I continued on a slow route to Brno, jumping off frequently to taking in local towns and sights. The slow trains allow plenty of time to gaze at the countryside as they meander past small lakes and peaceful hamlets. Brno itself was slightly disapointing though. It's a modern town that has become a primary location for trade fairs and conferences which has resulted in high prices and lots of grey suits everywhere. There's little in the way of travellers accommodation and I had to pay more for a room here than anywhere previously. I spent a cursory few hours in the morning looking around the town before catching the train to Bratislava.

Formally the second city of Czechoslovakia, Bratislava is now the capital of an independent Slovakia. To the causal observer there isn't a great deal of difference between the two countries. Rather like the Baltic States, the issue of sovereignty is a question of identity and recognition of separate histories than any incompatibilty between the people.

Another private stay arrangement turned out to be quite unusual. Owned by a trendy small-time film director (obligatory leather jacket and ponytail), the apartment was covered in strange drapes, self-painted murals and all lit by under floor spotlights. I met the owner at the booking agency where he described the room as a converted attic. It turned out to be a false floor constructed over the flat, accessed by a ladder with just a mattress and a few cushions to sleep on. Still, it was very cheap and turned to be surprisingly comfortable.

The sights of Bratislava are based around an old town and a large castle that overlooks the Danube River. All very pretty but slightly predictable. What I found more interesting was the strikingly ultra-modern bridge that spans the river. Still known as the "New Bridge" even though it was built in the 1960's it's quite unpopular with the people of Bratislava. Partly because of the fact that a large area of the old town was demolished to make way for its construction but also because it symbolises the arrogant posturing of a Communist era. I couldn't find a single postcard of the city that made any reference to the bridge.

I'd been taking the opportunity to try out the swimming pools wherever I went and the nearest one to my lodgings in Bratislava was another well equipped Olympic sized facility that puts our resources to shame. When I tried to go I found that the pool was reserved for a school party and I would have to wait for an hour. I decided to go elsewhere and just took a quick look at the swimmers from the spectator gallery. The level of ability and speed displayed was astounding, particularly when a game of water polo was played. This wasn't a group of elite swimmers either; even the solitary fat fid could swim like a fish. It's little wonder that Great Britain didn't get any swimming medals at the last Olympics.

On the last day I changed plans slightly and decided to abandon the trains for a while and use the Danube as a means of travelling to the next destinatio; booking a hydrofoil to Budapest for the next morning.